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Arap\u00e7a “tatl\u0131”, “\u015fekerleme”, “tatl\u0131 ekmek”, “tatl\u0131 et” anlamlar\u0131na gelen “halwa” “halawa” kelimesi dilimize ge\u00e7ti\u011fi gibi farkl\u0131 lisanlara da ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde girmi\u015f; \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrde kendine \u015fekerli bir yer bulmu\u015f. Helva, farkl\u0131 co\u011frafyalardaki uzun bir yolculu\u011fu i\u00e7inde Sanskrit\u00e7ede halava, M\u0131s\u0131r’da halawa, Yunanistan’da ve \u0130branicede helva, Arap\u00e7an\u0131n farkl\u0131 aksanlar\u0131nda hilva-halawi, Hindistan’\u0131n yerel dillerinde de helva olarak tan\u0131mlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Helvan\u0131n k\u00fclt\u00fcr tarihi hakk\u0131nda yap\u0131lan ara\u015ft\u0131rmalarda, -neredeyse b\u00fct\u00fcn- Balkan ve Orta Do\u011fu k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerinin bu lezzete sahip \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131, k\u00f6keninin kendine ait oldu\u011funu iddia etti\u011fi \u00f6zellikle yaz\u0131l\u0131yor. Baz\u0131 bilim adamlar\u0131, helvan\u0131n ilk kez 12. yy s\u0131ralar\u0131nda \u0130stanbul\u2019da ortaya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6ne s\u00fcrseler de, ilk yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131n M\u00d6 3000’li y\u0131llara kadar uzand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyenler de var.<\/span><\/p>\n Yap\u0131lan ara\u015ft\u0131rmalar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funda belirlendi\u011fi haliyle, helvan\u0131n yolculu\u011fu Mezopotamya\u2019dan ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde do\u011fudan bat\u0131ya kadar D\u00fcnyan\u0131n her k\u00f6\u015fesine yay\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Orta Asya’n\u0131n derinliklerinden G\u00fcney Asya’ya, Akdeniz k\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131ndan, Avrupa’n\u0131n i\u00e7lerine, Kuzey Afrika’dan k\u0131tan\u0131n i\u00e7 kesimlerine, Balkanlardan Malta\u2019ya, Rusya\u2019ya, \u0130spanyaya ve Amerika\u2019n\u0131n u\u00e7suz bucaks\u0131z topraklar\u0131na helvan\u0131n lezzeti sinmi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n \u0130lgin\u00e7tir, her toplum helvaya kendinden bir \u015feyler eklemi\u015f, yo\u011furdu\u011fu helvay\u0131 yerel malzemelerle zenginle\u015ftirmi\u015f; tad\u0131, rengi, kokusu, \u015feker oran\u0131, yo\u011funlu\u011fu ve sunu\u015f \u015fekilleri k\u00fclt\u00fcrden k\u00fclt\u00fcre de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f. Helva kimi yerde puding k\u0131vam\u0131nda sofralara gelmi\u015f, kimi k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerde de b\u0131\u00e7akla kesilecek sertlikte sunulmu\u015f.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n Bilinen ilk yaz\u0131l\u0131 helva tarihi, 13. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015flar\u0131nda Arap\u00e7a bir yemek kitab\u0131nda (Kitab al-Tabikh) ortaya \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcnk\u00fc helva \u00e7e\u015fidinin zenginli\u011fi o g\u00fcnden belliymi\u015f; 800 y\u0131l \u00f6nce yaz\u0131lan bu kitapta bile tam 7 ayr\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fit tarifi varm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Yine ayn\u0131 y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131na do\u011fru o y\u0131llarda Arap k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc etkisinde alt\u0131n \u00e7a\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ya\u015fayan \u0130spanya’da bas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir ba\u015fka el yazmas\u0131 yemek kitab\u0131nda da a\u011f\u0131z suland\u0131racak farkl\u0131 bir helva tarifi verilmi\u015f. O y\u0131llar\u0131n a\u011f\u0131z tad\u0131na g\u00f6re verilen bu tarif, kaynayan suya kat\u0131lan \u015feker, bal, susam ya\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7ine yava\u015f yava\u015f unun kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131 sonras\u0131nda \u00fczerine g\u00fcl suyu, \u00f6\u011f\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f f\u0131st\u0131k serpilmesini, en sonra da \u00fc\u00e7gen bi\u00e7imlerde kesilerek \u015ferbete yat\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011fl\u0131k veriyormu\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Helva topraklar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n da en eski tatl\u0131lar\u0131ndan biri. 13. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, Anadolu\u2019da s\u00fct hurmalar\u0131n\u0131n ezilip \u015ferbet k\u0131vam\u0131na getirilerek i\u00e7ine f\u0131nd\u0131k – ceviz tozu, \u00e7am ya da Antep f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131 kat\u0131lmas\u0131 sonras\u0131nda unlan\u0131p pi\u015firilen ve bekletildikten sonra da k\u0131\u015f\u0131n toplan\u0131p kuyulara bas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f kar ile kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131l\u0131p so\u011futulan helva isimli bir yemek yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 biliniyor.<\/span><\/p>\n Helva pi\u015firme tekniklerinin Osmanl\u0131da \u00e7ok geli\u015fti\u011fini ve s\u0131n\u0131rlar \u00f6tesine \u00e7\u0131karak d\u00f6rt bir yana yay\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyen \u00e7ok say\u0131da \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma var. <\/span><\/p>\n Osmanl\u0131 \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu’nun 1520 \u2013 1566 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda en uzun s\u00fcre h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcren padi\u015fah\u0131 Kanuni Sultan S\u00fcleyman d\u00f6neminde saray\u0131n mutfak b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcne \u015fekerli tatl\u0131lar\u0131n pi\u015firilmesi i\u00e7in “helvahane” yani “helva evi” ad\u0131 verilen \u00f6zel bir mutfak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Tarihsel kay\u0131tlarda ger\u00e7ek bir tatl\u0131 sever olarak bilinen Kanuni\u2019ye 30\u2019dan fazla \u00e7e\u015fit tatl\u0131 servisi yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve bunlar\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n da farkl\u0131 \u015fekillerde pi\u015firilmi\u015f helvalardan olu\u015ftu\u011fu yaz\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/span><\/p>\n Tanzimattan 5 y\u0131l sonra, 1844 Y\u0131l\u0131n\u0131n Eyl\u00fcl ay\u0131nda Mekteb-i T\u0131bbiye-i Adliye-i \u015e\u00e2h\u00e2ne hocalar\u0131ndan Mehmed K\u00e2mil taraf\u0131ndan haz\u0131rlanan ve 1844 -1888<\/span><\/span> y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda alt\u0131s\u0131 ta\u015f bask\u0131, ikisi de tipo olarak sekiz kez bas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f olan Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n ilk yemek kitab\u0131, Melce\u00fc\u2019t-Tabb\u00e2h\u00een\u2019de re\u015fidiye, gaziler, \u00d6zbek, yumurta, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 h\u00e2k\u00e2n\u00ee, lamunya ve pirin\u00e7 unu helvalar\u0131n\u0131n tarifi verilmi\u015f. Dahas\u0131 da var; yengem duymas\u0131n helvas\u0131, m\u00fcl\u00fbk\u00ee sak\u0131z, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 \u00e2s\u00fbde, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 s\u00e2b\u00fbn\u00ee, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 ne\u2019m\u00fbniyye, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 g\u00fcl\u00e2biye, helv\u00e2-y\u0131 ish\u00e2kiyye isimleriyle tarihin tozlu raflar\u0131nda sofralara d\u00f6nmeyi bekleyen ge\u00e7mi\u015fin lezzetleri var. Bunlar\u0131 tekrar ya\u015fama katmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan(lar) var m\u0131 bilmiyorum ama hem tarih\u00e7ilere, hem gastronomi uzmanlar\u0131na hem de men\u00fclerini g\u00fcn \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131karacak koleksiyonerlere ve merakl\u0131lara g\u00f6rev d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcyor, olmal\u0131!<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n \u0130lgin\u00e7tir, susaml\u0131 tahin ile yap\u0131lan helvalar hem A\u015fkenaz Yahudilerini hem de o ara Osmanl\u0131 y\u00f6netiminde ya\u015fayan Balkan halklar\u0131n\u0131 etkisi alt\u0131na alm\u0131\u015f. Helva, \u00f6zellikle 16.y\u00fczy\u0131ldan itibaren Bosna Hersek\u2019te o kadar pop\u00fcler bir yiyecek olmu\u015f ki, Ba\u015fkent Sarajevo\u2019da bir caddenin ad\u0131na bu lezzet verilmi\u015f; “Halvad\u017eiluk” Bulvar\u0131 Bosnal\u0131lar\u0131n helvaya olan \u00f6zlemini yollara yaym\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Geleneksel Yunan helvas\u0131, bildiklerimize \u00e7ok benzer \u015fekilde olsa da biraz farkl\u0131 bir \u015fekilde haz\u0131rlan\u0131yormu\u015f; tahin, ezilmi\u015f susam, susam ya\u011f\u0131, \u015feker, glikoz ve baldan yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n Bir de bizimki gibi irmik bazl\u0131 olan\u0131 var, o da halk aras\u0131nda “1: 2: 3: 4” olarak adland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. Bir birim ya\u011fda iki \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc irmik kavrulunca \u00fc\u00e7 \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fc \u015feker ile d\u00f6rt misli tar\u00e7\u0131nl\u0131- karanfilli suyun eklenip s\u0131cak \u015ferbette \u0131slat\u0131lmas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlan\u0131yormu\u015f; tu\u011fla \u015feklinde blok olarak sat\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Bir de Makedon helvas\u0131 var ki, sade, \u00e7ikolata aromal\u0131 veya \u00fczeri f\u0131nd\u0131kla kapl\u0131 olarak haz\u0131rlan\u0131p tar\u00e7\u0131nl\u0131 limon suyu ile servis ediliyormu\u015f. Y<\/span>unanistan’da ba\u015fka helvalar da var! En ilgin\u00e7 tarifler, kuzey Yunanistan’\u0131n baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerinde ve birka\u00e7 Ege adas\u0131nda bulunabilen peynir i\u00e7erikli helvalarm\u0131\u015f. Volos yak\u0131nlar\u0131ndaki Farsala b\u00f6lgesi d\u00fczg\u00fcn kesimli “farsolon helvas\u0131yla” \u00fcnl\u00fcym\u00fc\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n \u0130talya\u2019da helvan\u0131n k\u00f6kenini bulmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015fan ara\u015ft\u0131rmalarda, helvan\u0131n Akdeniz co\u011frafyas\u0131na yay\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131n Araplar sayesinde geli\u015fti\u011fini s\u00f6yleyenler \u00e7o\u011funlukta olsa da, bu s\u00fcreci helva yap\u0131m\u0131nda olmazsa olmazlar\u0131 olan bademin tarihsel olarak geldi\u011fi yer olan \u00c7in’den ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131na inanan tezler de ortaya at\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n M\u00d6 3 – 4 Y\u00fczy\u0131la tarihlenen bir s\u00fcre\u00e7te, Orta \u0130talya’daki Campania ile Adriyatik Denizi aras\u0131ndaki da\u011fl\u0131k Samnium b\u00f6lgesinde ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f Samnitlerin bir \u00e7e\u015fit helva pi\u015firdi\u011fi biliniyormu\u015f. Romal\u0131 bir tarih\u00e7i olan Tito Livio, MS 1. y\u00fczy\u0131lda, helvaya \u00e7ok benzeyen bir tatl\u0131y\u0131 anlatm\u0131\u015f ve bu tatl\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6l\u00fclerin an\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u015f\u00f6len tipi toplant\u0131larda kat\u0131lanlara hediye olarak ikram edildi\u011fini belirtmi\u015f. Efsaneye g\u00f6re, her y\u0131l 1 Kas\u0131m g\u00fcn\u00fcnde \u00f6l\u00fcler sevdiklerini bulmak i\u00e7in D\u00fcnyaya inerler ve sevdiklerini haz\u0131rlad\u0131klar\u0131 helva ile ararlarm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n 15. Y\u00fczy\u0131lda Sicilya’da bal ve susamdan yap\u0131lan helva i\u00e7ine k\u0131zarm\u0131\u015f tah\u0131l tohumlar\u0131n\u0131n kat\u0131lmas\u0131 Sardunyadan \u0130spanyol mutfa\u011f\u0131na kadar uzanm\u0131\u015f; Fransa’ya hatta y\u0131llar i\u00e7inde de \u00c7in\u2019e, Hindistan\u2019a, Tayvan\u2019a kadar ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n Helva \u0130talya\u2019da ilgin\u00e7 bir de\u011fi\u015fim ge\u00e7irmi\u015f ve Latince tost anlam\u0131na gelen “nuga” olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan benzer bir tatl\u0131n\u0131n da ortaya \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015f. Nugan\u0131n ilk kez Bianca Maria Visconti ile Francesco Sforza\u2019n\u0131n 25 Ekim 1441’deki d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ziyafeti s\u0131ras\u0131nda haz\u0131rland\u0131\u011f\u0131 s\u00f6yleyen tarihsel kay\u0131tlar e\u015fli\u011finde izleri s\u00fcr\u00fclebilen helva benzeri bu lezzetin yolculu\u011fu da farkl\u0131 bir ilgin\u00e7 da\u011f\u0131l\u0131m g\u00f6stermi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n F\u0131nd\u0131k ve bademin k\u0131zart\u0131lmas\u0131 ilgin\u00e7 bir tat ve g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm yaratm\u0131\u015f, bunun Araplardan m\u0131 al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 yoksa \u0130talya\u2019da m\u0131 denendi\u011fi yolundaki tart\u0131\u015fmalara hala nokta konamam\u0131\u015f. Bug\u00fcn genellikle Noel\u2019de yap\u0131lan bu tatl\u0131, bir zamanlar her g\u00fcn yenen k\u00f6keni gizemle kapl\u0131 bir g\u0131daym\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/strong> Asya \u00fclkelerinde de helva farkl\u0131 \u015fekillerde pi\u015firiliyor ama do\u011fudaki t\u00fcm \u00fclkeler aras\u0131nda, Hindistan co\u011frafyas\u0131 en s\u0131ra d\u0131\u015f\u0131 helva tariflere sahip k\u00fclt\u00fcrler i\u00e7eriyor.<\/span><\/p>\n Helva Bab\u00fcr kraliyet sofras\u0131n\u0131n vazge\u00e7ilmeziymi\u015f. Farkl\u0131 inan\u00e7 sistemlerine ait halk\u0131yla co\u011frafyas\u0131nda ya\u015fayan \u00e7ok say\u0131da k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn mutfak becerilerini y\u00fczy\u0131llar boyunca bir s\u0131r olarak saklayan Hint co\u011frafyas\u0131n\u0131n her k\u00f6\u015fesinde, helvalar\u0131n kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc pi\u015firili\u015f \u015fekilleri, renkleri, farkl\u0131 sunu\u015f bi\u00e7imleri ve yap\u0131l\u0131\u015f ama\u00e7lar\u0131 oldu\u011fu gibi bir\u00e7o\u011funun da ilgin\u00e7 hik\u00e2yeleri var. <\/span><\/p>\n Kuzey Hindistan’da, Bombay ve Bombay’\u0131n 400 km g\u00fcneyindeki Maharashtra b\u00f6lgesinde, \u00fclkenin en G\u00fcneyindeki Tamil Karnataka eyaletlerinde en yayg\u0131n helva t\u00fcr\u00fc “sooji” helvas\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. \u0130lgin\u00e7 olan bir \u015fey var, o da bu helva t\u00fcr\u00fcndeki ya\u011f, irmik, \u015feker ve su oranlar\u0131, Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n en bilinen helva “1: 2: 3: 4” gelene\u011fine t\u0131pat\u0131p benziyormu\u015f. Acaba diyorum yine kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za hayat\u0131n\u0131n bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc Hindistan\u2019da ge\u00e7iren, farkl\u0131 co\u011frafyalarda yerli halk gibi giyindi\u011fi ve onlar gibi beslendi\u011fi i\u00e7in yabanc\u0131 topraklarda \u00e7ok sevilen B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender mi \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor? Anadolu’nun tand\u0131r ekme\u011fini Hindistan’a ta\u015f\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczde tanduri olarak temel g\u0131da durumunda olmas\u0131na yol a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 gibi acaba helvay\u0131 da m\u0131 o g\u00f6t\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015f olabilir mi?<\/span><\/p>\n Hint-Pakistan helvalar\u0131 pembesinden ye\u015filine, mavisinden k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131s\u0131na kadar renkli oldu\u011fu kadar zencefiliyle, safran\u0131yla, pancar, havu\u00e7, kabak, havu\u00e7, ya\u015f-kuru meyveler ve y\u00fczlerce tipte baharat\u0131yla – sebzesiyle \u00e7ok zengin bir \u00e7e\u015fitlili\u011fi de sunmakta.<\/span><\/p>\n Hindistan, Pakistan insanlar\u0131n\u0131n mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan helva \u00e7\u0131kart\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda sanki geriye b\u00fcy\u00fck bir bo\u015fluk kalacak gibi bir d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnceye benim gibi 1774 y\u0131l\u0131nda bu topraklara ayak basan \u0130ngiliz komutan Albay Champion da kap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bu b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u00fclt\u00fcrle tan\u0131\u015fan \u0130ngilizler Bab\u00fcr, Mughlai, Afgan, Lucknowi, Ke\u015fmir, Awadhi mutfaklar\u0131ndan ve say\u0131s\u0131 y\u00fczleri belki binleri bulan helva tiplerinden \u00f6ylesine etkilenmi\u015fler ki, o g\u00fcne kadar tatmad\u0131klar\u0131 bu \u015fekerleme \u00e7e\u015fitleri sanki sanayi devrimi \u00f6ncesinde onlara b\u00fcy\u00fck bir itici g\u00fc\u00e7 olmu\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n \u0130ngilizlerin de Hint mutfa\u011f\u0131na katk\u0131s\u0131 olmu\u015f, kaynar s\u00fctle ek\u015fi maya kullanmak, i\u00e7eri\u011fin hamurla ve yulafla kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131larak lapa k\u0131vam\u0131na gelinceye kadar tereya\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7inde pi\u015firilmesi tekni\u011fi ile ortaya \u00e7\u0131kan puding tipi tatl\u0131lar, yerel lezzetlere kar\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Farkl\u0131 tah\u0131llar\u0131n unlar\u0131, irmik, bakliyat, havu\u00e7, kabak, elma, patates, kuru-ya\u015f \u00fcz\u00fcm, kabak gibi sebze-meyve \u00e7e\u015fitleri, kuruyemi\u015flerle, ha\u015fha\u015f tohumuyla ve envai \u00e7e\u015fit baharatlarla helvan\u0131n i\u00e7inde bulu\u015fmu\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Masadan kalbe giden yolun baharatlarla, farkl\u0131 sebze – bitki \u00e7e\u015fitleriyle bezeli oldu\u011fu Hindistan’da bir sofradan mutlu ve doymu\u015f olarak ayr\u0131lman\u0131n tek yolu bunu iyi bir helva ile sonland\u0131rmak gereklili\u011fiymi\u015f. <\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n On yedinci y\u00fczy\u0131lda Hindistan\u2019da bu lezzeti \u00f6\u011frenen \u0130ngilizler taraf\u0131ndan Kuzey Amerika’ya g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fclen helva, burada bu\u011fday unu yerine m\u0131s\u0131r unu ve yulaf ezmesi ile yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. 1840 Y\u0131l\u0131nda lezzetleri kay\u0131t alt\u0131na alan Eliza Leslie\u2019nin “A\u015f\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k Tarifleri” isimli kitab\u0131nda “Hint pudingi” olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f; yava\u015f pi\u015firmenin \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli oldu\u011fu vurgulanarak lapa k\u0131vam\u0131na getirilinceye kadar \u00f6zel yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ubuklarla topaklanmalar\u0131 \u00f6nlemek i\u00e7in kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131 tavsiye edilmi\u015f. New England b\u00f6lgesi mutfa\u011f\u0131nda “so\u011fuk mevsim klasi\u011fi” olarak geleneksel bir Amerikan tatl\u0131s\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fen bu helva tipi, 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n sonlar\u0131nda \u015e\u00fckran G\u00fcn\u00fc kutlamalar\u0131n\u0131n bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak yeniden canlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n \u0130lerleyen y\u0131llarda Romanya \u00fczerinden Ukrayna\u2019ya oradan da 19. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ilk yar\u0131s\u0131nda y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131nda Amerika’ya ula\u015fan ba\u015fka bir helva tipi de bu yeni k\u0131tada da a\u011fz\u0131n\u0131n tad\u0131n\u0131 bilenleri yan\u0131na \u00e7ekmi\u015f; ilk helva ma\u011fazas\u0131 1907 y\u0131l\u0131nda Brooklyn’de a\u00e7\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Bu sayede bir\u00e7ok Amerikan Yahudisi “joyva” helvas\u0131 ile b\u00fcy\u00fcm\u00fc\u015f; joyva helvas\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcretimi y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131 a\u015fk\u0131n bir s\u00fcredir devam ediyormu\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Amerikal\u0131lar, helvalara su yerine bol s\u00fct koymu\u015flar, ak\u00e7aa\u011fa\u00e7 \u015furubunun aromas\u0131na tar\u00e7\u0131n ve \u00f6\u011f\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f zencefil eklemi\u015fler. \u0130lerleyen y\u0131llarda Amerikan helvalar\u0131 geleneksel olarak yumu\u015fak bir k\u0131vam i\u00e7inde haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f, tereya\u011f\u0131, yumurta, kuru \u00fcz\u00fcm ve f\u0131nd\u0131k bolca kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n Brezilyada helva benzeri puding olan “curau” \u00e7ok seviliyormu\u015f. Portekizlilerin getirdi\u011fi bu lezzet tatl\u0131 m\u0131s\u0131r gevre\u011finin uzunca bir s\u00fcre kaynat\u0131l\u0131p daha sonra sertle\u015fmesine kadar \u00f6zenle kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131r\u0131lmas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlan\u0131yormu\u015f; hindistancevizi s\u00fct\u00fc ile rendelenmi\u015f hindistan cevizi son dakikada ekleniyormu\u015f. M\u0131s\u0131r kabu\u011funa sar\u0131larak servis edilen bu helvan\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne tar\u00e7\u0131n tozu serpilmesi de adettenmi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n M\u0131s\u0131rl\u0131lar “halawa” ad\u0131n\u0131 verdikleri bu lezzete, Antep f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131, badem ve \u00e7am f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131 katm\u0131\u015flar, baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerde mantar par\u00e7alar\u0131 da eklemi\u015fler.<\/span><\/p>\n K\u00f6rfez \u00dclkelerinde m\u0131s\u0131r unu, tereya\u011f\u0131, \u015feker, f\u0131nd\u0131k, kakule ve safrandan yap\u0131lan helvalar k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kaplarda haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f, genellikle kahve ile sunulmu\u015f ve \u00e7ok t\u00fcketilen tatl\u0131lardan biri olmu\u015f. Bahreyn, Kuveyt ve Katar’da \u00f6\u011f\u00fct\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f badem, \u015feker, kakule, safran, g\u00fcl suyu, un, ya\u011f, hurma ve sudan yap\u0131lan “Sembosa Helwah” haz\u0131rlan\u0131rken malzemeler birlikte yo\u011frulup k\u0131zart\u0131l\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Helva bu \u00fclkelerde genellikle d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ve davetlerin olmazsa olmaz\u0131ym\u0131\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n \u0130ran’da helva genellikle safran kullan\u0131larak yap\u0131l\u0131p unun tencerede orta ate\u015fte k\u0131zart\u0131lmas\u0131yla haz\u0131rlan\u0131yormu\u015f. Helvan\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcn\u00fc Antep f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile s\u00fcsleyen \u0130ranl\u0131lar i\u00e7in helva yer yer ana yemek olarak servis edilen bir lezzetmi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Bu konuda yap\u0131lan bir y\u00fcksek lisans tezinde okudu\u011fum verilere g\u00f6re \u00fclkemizde evlerde en \u00e7ok un helvas\u0131, onu izleyen oranda da irmik helvas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f. Haz\u0131r sat\u0131n al\u0131nan helvalarda ise tahin helvas\u0131 ba\u015f\u0131 \u00e7ekerken k\u00e2\u011f\u0131t helva ikinci s\u0131rada takip ediyormu\u015f. Bu ara\u015ft\u0131rmaya kat\u0131lanlar\u0131n %73,7 \u2018l\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n y\u0131lda birka\u00e7 kez helva yap\u0131yor olmas\u0131, %74,4 \u2018l\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fcn de helva sat\u0131n al\u0131yor olmas\u0131 bu g\u0131dan\u0131n \u00fclkemiz a\u00e7\u0131s\u0131ndan ne derece \u00f6nemli oldu\u011funu g\u00f6stermekteymi\u015f. Asl\u0131nda veriler ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz y\u0131llarla k\u0131yasland\u0131\u011f\u0131nda t\u00fcketimin d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc de anlatmaktaym\u0131\u015f; insanlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n malum sebeplerden dolay\u0131 bir nebze de olsa helva yemekten uzakla\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 i\u015faret etmekteymi\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Helvan\u0131n i\u00e7inde neler yok ki; g\u00f6rd\u00fcn\u00fcz; her co\u011frafyada yerel malzemeler cesaretle kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f! \u00c7ikolata, portakal, vanilya, bal, hindistancevizi, badem, Antep f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131, \u015feker, pancar, ananas, ceviz, yer f\u0131st\u0131\u011f\u0131, f\u0131nd\u0131k, limon, portakal, vanilya, kahve, pancar, elma, hurma ve buraya eklenebilecek say\u0131s\u0131z meyve, baharat, sebze ve tah\u0131l ad\u0131\u2026 <\/span><\/p>\n Helva bir\u00e7ok \u00fclkenin k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olmu\u015f; \u00f6yle ki d\u00fcnyan\u0131n baz\u0131 b\u00f6lgelerinde, \u00f6rnek olarak \u0130spanya’da Alicante’de, Fransa’da Mont\u00e9limar’da, Tayvan’da, \u00c7in\u2019de, Almanya’da Smalcalda b\u00f6lgesinde helvan\u0131n da hik\u00e2yesini anlatan \u015fekerleme m\u00fczeleri kurulmu\u015f.<\/span><\/p>\n Do\u011fanlar\u0131n sevincini, \u00f6l\u00fcmlerin ac\u0131s\u0131n\u0131, \u00f6zel g\u00fcnlerin hat\u0131r\u015finas an\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 helvan\u0131n lezzeti i\u00e7inde arayan rit\u00fcelik sofralarda “kara toprak helvas\u0131”, “un helvas\u0131”, “irmik helvas\u0131”, “peynir helvas\u0131” gibi farkl\u0131 pi\u015fim helvalar y\u00fczy\u0131llarca a\u011f\u0131zlar\u0131 tatland\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. <\/span><\/p>\n Helva ve di\u011fer \u015fekerli g\u0131dalar hem ka\u00e7\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z hem de s\u0131\u011f\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z lezzetlerden. Yerken haz verse de, kilo \u2013 sa\u011fl\u0131k sorunu olanlar i\u00e7in sofradan kalk\u0131nca farkl\u0131 duygular\u0131 da tatt\u0131rmakta. Ne diyelim, a\u011fz\u0131n\u0131z\u0131n tad\u0131 yerken de, sofradan kalk\u0131nca da yerinde olsun efendim.<\/span><\/p>\n G\u00fczellikleri biriktirmenizi dilerim.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" \u00dcz\u00fcnt\u00fcye de, sevince de e\u015flik eden lezzet; Helvan\u0131n Tarihi Helva, Balkanlar’dan Hindistan’a kadar ya\u015fayan t\u00fcm k\u00fclt\u00fcrlerin kendisine ait oldu\u011funu iddia etti\u011fi ve sofras\u0131yla \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015ftirdi\u011fi bir lezzet Arap\u00e7a “tatl\u0131”, “\u015fekerleme”, “tatl\u0131 ekmek”, “tatl\u0131 et” anlamlar\u0131na gelen “halwa” “halawa” kelimesi dilimize ge\u00e7ti\u011fi gibi farkl\u0131 lisanlara da ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde girmi\u015f; \u00e7ok farkl\u0131 k\u00fclt\u00fcrde kendine \u015fekerli bir yer bulmu\u015f. … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":64,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-553","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-helva","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=553"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":651,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553\/revisions\/651"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/64"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=553"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=553"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/memetoglu.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=553"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021400839-image-1.png\")
<\/span><\/h5>\nFarkl\u0131 co\u011frafyalar\u0131n farkl\u0131 garnit\u00fcrleri helvalara zenginlik katm\u0131\u015f<\/h5>\n
\u0130lk helva tarifi 13. y\u00fczy\u0131lda bas\u0131lm\u0131\u015f<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021522440-image-2.png\")
<\/span><\/h5>\nG\u00fcneydo\u011fu Asya \u00fclkelerinde de farkl\u0131 pi\u015fim teknikleriyle envai \u00e7e\u015fit helva ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn<\/h5>\n
Osmanl\u0131 Saray mutfa\u011f\u0131nda \u00f6zel b\u00f6l\u00fcm; “helvahane”<\/span> <\/span><\/h3>\n
\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\nYunanistan\u2019da ve Balkanlarda Helva<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021723155-image-6.png\")
<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n\u0130talya\u2019da birine helva vermek, onu sonsuza kadar sevece\u011fine dair vaatte bulunman\u0131n simgesiymi\u015f<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021687551-image-5.png\")
<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021782439-image-7.png\")
<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\nHindistan co\u011frafyas\u0131nda Helva<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021863993-image-8.png\")
<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021930189-image-9.png\")
<\/span><\/p>\nHelva \u015fi\u015fman erkekleri simgeleyen bir imge olarak Amerikan halk \u015fark\u0131lar\u0131na konu olmu\u015f<\/span><\/h3>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/media-cdn.t24.com.tr\/media\/library\/2021\/11\/1638021964101-image-10.png\")
<\/span><\/h5>\nBrezilyada helvalar\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcne tar\u00e7\u0131n tozu serpilip m\u0131s\u0131r ko\u00e7an\u0131 kabu\u011fu i\u00e7inde servis ediliyor<\/h5>\n
D\u00fcnyada helva<\/span><\/h3>\n
\n<\/span>19 Ocak 1936 Tarihli Haber Gazetesinde \u00e7\u0131kan bir makalede eski istanbul adetlerinden olan “helva sohbeti” konusu i\u015flenmi\u015f<\/h5>\nHelva yumurta ve s\u00fct i\u00e7ermeyen tipleriyle ayn\u0131 zamanda tam bir vegan g\u0131das\u0131! <\/span><\/h3>\n
\n<\/span>Eski helva kutular\u0131, efemeralar\u0131 ve g\u00f6rselleri tematik koleksiyonerlerin g\u00f6zdeleri aras\u0131nda.
\n(Emre Kahraman koleksiyonu)<\/h5>\n